Times of Glory: Louis Vuitton

Tuesday, 29 April 2008

1950s Glamour

I was tidying up my wardrobe and realised many of clothes are sorts of influenced by 50s glamour. In case you want to read something about 1940s fashion, you can check out my the other post, 1940s Fascination.

If someone asks me what is so significant about 1950s fashion, I’d say the New Look of Christian Dior which dominated the fashion for almost a decade since 1947, was gradually taken over by Chanel boxy-cut suits (after Chanel reopen in 1954) and of course, the birth of the famous Chanel classic 2.55 bag, launched in Feburary 1955. However, I guess that the most important issue happened in the fashion industry is the arrival of the teenager fashion, which overpowered the fabulous fashion for mid-age ladies. It was the first time that teenager girls did not dress like their mothers.

Actually, 1950s fashion was a period of transition in fashion, since till mid 1950s, everything was still pretty much 1940s. Then, the arrival of the teenage cult mutated the fashion from much disciplined style to more flexible 1950s glamour – the defined waist line, the gorgeous full and voluminous skirt, the pencil slim tubular skirt and mid-heeled pumps. The detailing on the clothes in 1950s is very pretty – beading on the sweaters and occasional extravagance on the circle skirts. OK, let’s put an easier way: the first half of 1950s is more Grace Kelly (or even Anna Wintour) whilst the second half is moving toward Audrey Hepburn.

(Dior New Look dominates the fashion industry 1947 - mid 50s)

(Grace Kelly & Elizabeth Taylor in early 50s)

(Audrey Hepburn's cropped fitted trousers and relaxed jumper influenced mid 50s fashion)

(The reopen of Chanel gives the 50s suit a new definition)

The movie, Walk the Line (2005), is a perfect example for the fashion during that era, since it goes through the whole 50s. Particularly, I do think Reese Witherspoon has the perfect early 50s style.

There is one interesting dress worn by Reese Witherspoon looks like Zac Posen ss06 dress worn by Hilary Swank in P.S. I Love You (2008). Here we have it that mordern fashion is influenced by this fifties feel.

What’s good about fashion is that there is always something new, the chic ones will remains as "style" and the ambiguous ones will become a short trend. For me, what's more interesting is the new modern 50s influnced fashion. Many talented designers are able to indicate the past, but the silhouette gives much fashion-forward picture.

Blumarine ss07 - shows its best chic clothing

Christian Dior ss07 - the mix of late fifties boxes cut & modern sleeve detailing

Bottega Veneta aw08 makes late fifties fitted cut much more effortless!

In the mood of dressing up, I thought I'd play with some my outfits that are sorts of influenced by fifties but shows much more of my own definition... I was going to model myself, but God, I don't why I'm useless in front of camera. I like mix & match, which is really important for 1) I cannot afford keep buying new things, so I have to "utilise" them ; and 2) I have kept too many clothes (so if I don't play with it, it will sleep in my wardrobe).

My Early 50s influenced Wardrobe

Top: Gucci Mohair Jumper
Skirt: Chanel Polka Dot Silk Skirt
Belt: Alexander McQueen Padlock Belt

Do you like this little brooch? That's my Chanel clip-on earring.

Top: Burberry Prorsum

Skirt: Chanel

My Mid & Late 50s influenced Wardrobe

Top: Gucci Mohair Jumper
Skirt: My cutiest Moschino

Hello u!

Top: Chanel
Skirt: Alexander McQueen

Top: Chanel
Skirt: Paul Smith Women

Top: Chanel
Skirt: Louis Vuitton
Brooch: Prada

Top: Matthew Williamson
Skirt: Louis Vuitton with the beautiful little bow at the back

Top: Moschino Jacket - always pick me up in the morning
Skirt: Louis Vuitton

Monday, 14 April 2008

1940s Fascination

I was bravely putting on my red lipstick the other day (which I always love doing to team my long dark curled hair), and as a result, I've noticed many people "staring" at me in the underground. I looked around and noticed that most people have neutral make-up and maybe a few having "strong-eye" make-up, but only me wearing a 1940s makeup - clear face, black eyeliner and my lovely deep red lipstick. All of the sudden, I wonder why many people are afraid of the glamous makeup nowadays.

To the best of my knowledge, there was never enough stock of anything from make-up to clothes through out 1940s, but ladies did absolutely their best to look great, even more effort made than many of us today. Also, its hairstyle played a crucial role through out 40s image transformation: from popular shoulder length curls (beautifully framing the face) and page-boy cuts in the early 40s, to that hair was worn high over the forehead in a puff or in rolls in a pompadour in mid 40s. Some factories even installed hair saloms to improve women's long-term attendance. Hats were worn for most occasions, almost always tipped to one side and decorated with bits of net veiling, feathers, ribbons, or brooches. Remember the movie The Black Dahlia, played by Scarlett Johansson, Josh Hartnett, Hilary Swank and Aaron Eckhart. They filmed a great image of 1940s Hollywood.

Indeed, much modern fashion is influenced by 1940s glamour from Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent to Marc Jacobs. Among all, I particularly like one collection – aw07 Gucci by Frida Giannini. The every part of the collection was well polished. Frida Giannini said that "I've been reading a biography of Lee Miller, a woman who started off as a model, became a friend of the surrealists and then a war photographer for British Vogue - a strong woman with two sides to her," she explained, "I was thinking about the dresses of the thirties and forties, with high waists and emphasis on the shoulder." I like Lee Miller who was such a unique character. Below are the 2 pictures taken by her. Can you recognise that the background of the first picture was 1940s Regent Park, London?

Lee Miller (06/1940) - Medium Price Fashion, London

Lee Miller (1944) - Service Women at a Fashion Salon, Paris

Actually, the dress in the second picture looks really like my Alexander McQueen Dress. Don't you think?

Back to Gucci, Frida Giannini then married Gucci rock-chic image to this ultra feminie polished look seamlessly!

Recently, the forties style strongly influenced the latest show of Diane von Furstenberg. Von Furstenberg teamed her unique colour pattern with forties bow-front blouse and narrowly flaring A-line skirt and presented twisted modern forties.

(aw08 Diane von Furstenberg)

When talking about 40s fashion, I cannot skip one of my favourite fashion icons – Dita Von Teese who is probably the best for 1940s retro dressing-up, but always perfectly mixes modern pieces. Many people have a wrong impression thinking many pretty clothes of Dita are vintage, but actually they are far more modern. I also have kept some of my favourite pieces.